in any case, food and wine were good and appropriately priced. lolo seems to resist classification in any cooking tradition, though there are a few unusual and ethnically identifiable ingredients (most obvious: huitlacoche) and more unusual spanish wines and latin american preparations than i'd expected. at the barman's suggestion, i got a glass of rotllan torra priorat reserve 2001 (good, but overpriced -- fortunately, a generous pour) while waiting.
- octopus tiradito was excellent; cold, tender but not mushy, just chewy enough, and dusted liberally with something red and spicy that wasn't paprika and might have been annatto.
- fried shrimp taco sounded lame but was actually marvellously done. it came dressed with a spicy remoulade/sour cream sauce and was served on top of rounds of thinly-shaved jicama.
- the seafood corn sopes were filled with a barely-cooked mix of shrimp, scallop, and octopus bound with a light mayonnaise and came with a salad of shaved red cabbage and persian cucumber.
- duck confit was DIY and came on a huge square plate with four quadrants containing a mound of shredded duck confit, a small pile of cilantro (someone had gone to the trouble of plucking the leaves from the stems and discarding imperfect ones), a steamer basket full of fresh corn tortillas, and a small bowl of a sweet/tart sauce reputed to contain grapefruit.
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